Operation Yard Sale Complete! (And Some Advice for You!)

We had our annual purging yard sale this past weekend.  I love the idea of having someone pay you to take away your stuff!  It is a shit TON of work but worth it in the end when you rid your house of items that you no longer need and get to make a bit of money in the process! I also love GOING to yard sales and I have my pet peeves so I try to be a mindful seller as well.  Yard sales are for bargain hunting for sure. (I decorated the entry way of our house in garage sale chic with the help of a few cans of spray paint and some imagination for under $30.) 

My BFF, Leah, is my yard sale companion, in addition to my begrudging hubby we usually make a good tag team. You will want more than one person to (as in you plus one or two!) at your sale.  It will get CROWDED at times- usually between 8 and 9:30.

So my first tip is preparation in the signage and in the merchandising.  You can't expect to put up signs scribbled on notebook paper in BIC pen (or paper plates with SALE and an itty bitty arrow on them) and drive traffic to your sale.  Furthermore, throwing out everything on the driveway in one pile is a no-no.  

Another note about signs....  Please, please, take the time to take down your signs. It’s not only inconsiderate to your ‘customers’ that try to find you, but it’s also good for Mother Nature. 

One thing that I hear regularly hear at our sales is “Great Signs!” They are large (18 x 24)  DOUBLE sided signs, on ground stakes with very large red print that says YARD SALE with an equally impressive arrow directing the way. I make them on the computer (four sheets of paper per sign) and tape them onto what I’ll call campaign signs (you know the ones that you see along the road during election season?)- and then they can be shoved into the ground. I've had these for years and they are reused and even borrowed for acquaintance's sales.

Remember, you have about three seconds to catch a passers-by attention and make them turn the car in your direction. It’s not necessary to put the time and date, as long as you put them up and take them down (appoint a family member to help) when your sale is going on; nor should you try to list items in 8-pt font. (If you want to list items, try craigslist- that’s another good way to advertise or find yard sales!)  I can guarantee that if you take the care into making good, attention catching signs, you will actually make more money. Our sale this year netted a fair amount for our efforts, we average about $500 with the highest price point was about $50. 

My other 'expert' advice? 

• Take a few weeks to plan your sale to give you time to clean, mark and sort your items- and to make the signs too. Clean and Marking are operable words here.  Although I didn't mark 2/3 of the stuff due to time constraints, I marked the items I wasn't flexible on the price about $5 to $10 more than I wanted.  The rest I had an idea somewhere between $1 and up.
• Let your friends 'shop' the night before!  This is a great 'excuse' to get some last minute help, but also give them a good deal on things that are perfect for them.  My friend Michelle walked away with two huge bags of clothes for $30!
• Make good signs- yes, this is the third time I've said it, but.... at least get the poster board from the dollar store and make large letters on it! You can affix it to a box weighted with rocks to keep it standing!
• Post your Sale on Craigslist earlier in the week with highlights and then edit it again the night before to appear for the sale day.  Don't forget to remove the ad once your sale is over.
• People will shoplift at your sale.  It's a sad fact but it will happen.  We post a person at each end of the driveway to deter that and they have to pay to get to their car. 
• If you want to get really organized, while "spring" (or winter/ fall, etc) cleaning, and you come across an item that you don't want, after inspecting it for defects- slap a price sticker on it and throw it in the Garage Sale box tucked away in a hiding spot!
• Ask your neighbors, friends or family if they would like to participate. The more wares at your sale, the better. Also, they can bring tables (see below).  Multi-family sales always draw a crowd.
• They will come, and they will buy, especially if they don’t have to bend down to look! Borrow as many portable tables and shelves as you can. I attribute the success of our sales to the fact that nearly everything was on a table, clean (if you pick it up and say, ewwwww, so will someone else!) and (most) clearly marked. The fact that people didn't have to rummage and bend down will make them look longer!
• Don’t forget to get change- I usually go with $70 to start, with $1's, $5's and $10's and a bunch of quarters.   You will have many people that will give you a $20 for $3 worth of stuff!  Carry your change in a purse and put larger bills in the house when you can.  A Cash drop for those of you that have ever worked retail)
• Make a sign at check-out that says " CASH ONLY" and “All Sales Final”
• Have paper and plastic grocery bags on hand to wrap fragile items and to bag peoples purchases. Offer them bags and they will fill them- more money for you and less to haul away later.
• Purchase the little priced dot stickers at the dollar store and use them in a very visible spot on the item.  It will save you from having to answer “How Much?” 500 times in one day. If you priced it higher than someone wants to pay, they’ll generally ask if you’ll take X amount. Masking Tape and sharpies work well too.  (I skipped this cardinal rule and although I may have suffered from sales from it, I was crazy busy with life to do pricing justice.)  I just knew in general what I wanted for an item in ADVANCE.
• See above? If the time has to be picked up with two hands, a good rule of thumb is to use a larger sticker or affix a piece of paper. Also, be aware of where you stick pricing stickers- make sure you won't ruin the item
• Sell in multiples for better value- books, CD’s, clothing. I love sales where I can find three paperback books for $1 or fill a bag with clothes for $5.  Get creative with your marketing to attract a sale- group items together- like "new parent's must haves," "college student's dorm room"
• Mark items in multiples of 25 cents- it will be easier to make change.
• Have an extension cord handy to test out electrical appliances and hook up your radio for musical ambiance
• If you think you can get more for an item individually, either consign or Craigslist it by itself. People go to sales wanting a deal and expect to pay about 20% at most to retail value.
• Be prepared to haggle and deal.  It's an art form.  People will also low-ball you and you need to decide in advance what your strategy is.  I have had buyers offer me $3 for an item marked $20- that's a stretch.... I'll take $17.... you'll get the idea once your sale begins
• What to price items:
• Shoes- $2 to $5 depending on wear and brand
• Baby Clothing- name brand (Gymboree, GAP, etc.) $1 to $3 depending on quality.  I did $1 for each piece and it went flying off the tables.  
• Adult Clothing- .50c to $3, Denim $5- it's a crap shoot-  I did fill a bag for $5 and sold quite a bit
• Baby Equipment- check to ensure it's not recalled, has all the parts and sell for about 30% of retail. (Play Yards $20, Blankets $2, Strollers- $20, etc.)  
• Toys- $2- $5 depending on items, Board games and puzzles should be closer to $1- they are a hard sell but will if priced right (people are afraid of missing pieces)
• Books- Hardbacks for $1 each, Soft, 3/$1, Kids books .75c
• CD's/DVDs- $1 to $2
• Home Decor- under $10
• Kitchen Stuff- under $5
• Appliances- check retail prices and CL and price accordingly
• people don't care what the sentimental value is to you, if you can't bear to part with it, don't put it in the sale.
• if you think you can get more elsewhere, sell it there but the whole point of the sale is to watch it walk away.
• Don't put the shit back in your house once you are done! 
• I was pressed for time this sale and paid someone to clean and haul away the items at the end.  BEST. MONEY. SPENT.  I'd already spent enough time getting ready for it, and it prevented me from thinking I needed to keep the items.  They have already been setting out of view for months, no need to bring it back inside!
• Be respectful of your neighbors and post no parking signs- I posted no parking signs in front of my two closest neighbors to avoid having cars stop in the middle of my sale blocking the view of 'driver's-by' and also for noise.  Starting your sale at dawn is mean for your neighbors.  It's their weekend too!
• Check your HOA and city rules for sign posting and sale-hosting laws.  Some cities don't allow sign posting on their landmarks or more than one sale per year, etc.

Phew! It's a lot of advice but I hope it will help you have an incredibly successful sale!

It's Sunday- COUPONS are here!

Oh, I do get excited about more things than this, but it's always so fun to linger over the Sunday paper, ads and coupon inserts ("inserts") with a LATTE and a rerun of Law & Order or CSI on! If only that were every Sunday- in most cases the ads are piled on the counter and the paper goes out to recycle! And perhaps I might have already previewed all of the above on the net, but regardless a girl can dream.....
What happens to those coupons once I've pursued them? The get filled in my SaveALatte$ Bin for a rainy day. Seriously, I'm not an extreme couponer, but I love to save a buck so I had to find an easy way to organize my priceless coupons. It wasn't by clipping and filing a huge binder full- I tried that route and as portable as it was, it was just a nightmare for me to keep up to date. I got a few kudos on trips with those but the thumb calluses from the scissors and hours that it took just wasn't worth the time/ money effort for my family. If it works for you- awesome; it just didn't for me. You could go the envelope route; or the binder route or a hybrid of the two, but so far, what I've done is a "no clip" system and have filed them in a very large plastic storage file/crate organized by date and source. I also print out a quick list of what (supposedly! as each insert varies with coupons and savings) is in each folder and staple it on. It's very low maintenance and user friendly. Not so much portable, but if in doubt, then I'll throw the whole thing in my trunk if I feel like a shopping trip will be unusually fruitful.
    So what to do now? When I get ready to go shopping to one of my favorite stores (CVS/Walgreens/Target/Safeway) then I'll pull up one of my favorite on-line sources to tell me what's the best of savings for that store. If you think that I do this all on my own, then you are super crazy! I certainly don't have the time to complete all of the 'match-ups' (that's what you get when there is an item on sale with a particular valid coupon) so I just let my favorite sites do that for me. There are tons of them out there including hundreds of fellow mom-blogs. I am quite particular to a few because they work for my $avings $tyle:
http://www.totallytarget.com/  (The store is self explanatory!)
http://www.southernsavers.com/  (I love this site because I can actually pull up a printable list to take with me- and I use this for CVS and Walgreens)
http://thekrazycouponlady.com:8080/category/safeway/ (Safeway is my favorite Northern California grocery store)
I then build my list and refer to their match-ups and then clip them out of my files or in many cases even "printable" coupons. Those coupons then go into a "portable" file (a blue poly expandable envelope) to take to the store along with my list. (I also store any 'clipped' coupons in this little file.) The list helps me to stay on track to save time and money. Note that the list is made based upon what I need for that particular week's meal ideas and what needs to be restocked. If there is a score of a deal on something that we regularly use, like pasta or cereal, then I'll stock up but my goal isn't to purchase enough stock for a fall-out shelter, just what we'll consume. Then off we go to the store to save! I really should track how much I save over the course of the year, but just knowing that by combining the store deals with coupons, I'm keeping more money in my pocket for my Lattes is priceless!


Here's a quick overview of coupon terms from a prior post that I did in 2009 on coupon terms:
• Manufacturer’s- these are the ones found in newspaper inserts, but also in magazines, from “blinkies” on the store shelves, and now, on the Internet, printed either from a manufacturer’s website or a merchant’s website.
• Store coupons- these are found in store circulars or on the stores’ websites. The good news about these is that they can be used in conjunction (“stacked”) with a manufacturer’s coupon to increase your savings.

• BOGO- these are “Buy One, Get One” coupons where you either get something free or at a drastically reduced price. (You can also use up to FIVE coupons on a BOGO purchase- one for the BOGO and then two manufacturer’s coupons for each item. If there is a matching store coupon- even better!)

• WYB- these are “When You Buy…., You Get….” Coupons. A popular one that most everyone sees is like a save $10 off your $30 purchase at Bath & Body Works.

• $$ Off- simply stated, they are a $ off a certain amount of purchase, mostly connected to a certain store. We religiously use the $5/ off $15 purchase at CVS! They usually print from Catalinas at checkout, or in the case of CVS, they have a special printer when you walk in the store when you scan your frequent buyers card.

• Store Member- when you sign up for a free rewards program, your prices are usually the lower price in advertised sales. (We have CVS and Safeway… and at free obviously worth the weight in gold!)

• Rebates/ Checks- Rebates are usually something that you receive after the fact, but are worth looking into as they are higher dollar amounts.

I hope that you find this helpful and can save a latte money with coupons. And also, don't be afraid of what people think- it's YOUR money! ( :

Trade in and Trade up at Consignment Sales

I discovered my first baby/ kid’s consignment sale last March when I was early in my pregnancy but would soon need maternity clothing. A friend of mine had told me about it and I saw a few local television shows doing a live segment, so I thought I would check it out. I happened to stumble by on the last day of this local sale which coincidentally is also ‘half-off’ day and I hit the mother lode for maternity clothes. I managed to get a wonderful work and 'play' wardrobe for around $80- about the cost of two or three designer pieces. I was hooked! The next (there are two sales during the spring/ summer and fall/ winter sales in this area- well, now three- Wahoo!) sale was going to be right after I found out the baby’s gender and I was going to check out clothing, gear, etc. Since then, I’ve attended about eight of the sales and have participated as a consignor at four. It’s seriously addictive. So stop reading NOW if you don’t want to save money on your gently used clothing, toys, gear and more; or better yet perhaps make a little money too!

There is some preparation that does go into making your items salable, but it’s worth the effort, especially when you get your consignor check a few weeks after the sale! The first part is cleaning and de-cluttering your house and yard- when you are changing out seasonal clothes, go through them and inspect them for rips, tears and stains. If they are free from all of the above, great- it goes into the “Consign Me” Box. A good rule of thumb for what to sell is to ask yourself the question, “would I buy this myself” (yea, you’re getting rid of it now- but why? Is it just too small or is it because it’s not usable or completely out of style- think older than five years. If it’s just small, great, sell it, if you said yes to the other questions, pitch it in the garbage.) If toys are broken, missing pieces or have been recalled than those are not acceptable items either. You can certainly try to consign them, but it is either going to get rejected at inspection at the sale (and you’ve wasted the time prepping and tagging) or they are going to get pulled from the floor, or worse a happy-go-lucky buyer is going to purchase it, get really mad and contact the consignment sale management and you’re going to get a bad mark as a consignor. Remember, if you wouldn’t buy it in its current shape, most other people won’t either.

Once you have your “Consign Me” box nice and full and you’ve registered for whatever sale you are going to participate in, it’s time to prep items to take to the sale! I’ve researched the most popular ones on the internet and they all have a computerized tagging system for consignors to use, so you will need to have ready access to a computer and printer. Additional supplies include: Cardstock (60# or 67# stock- in WHITE or pastel color only); Safety Pins (#2 size <1-1/2”> and #1 <1-1/16"> are good sizes to start with- the really small ones are a pain!); Clear Packing Tape in a dispenser roll; Clear Plastic Ziptop Bags in Gallon size; Zip Ties or Heavy String (for securing shoes/ packages); Hangers- lots of them, and NOT metal ones (the metal ones are horribly inconvenient for organizing, shopping and breakdown at the sales- some sales prefer metal, but not the ones I’ve done- so check with the management to be sure); Scissors; Batteries (for toys- they have to work to sell) and optional is a “Tagging Gun” and Plastic Barbs to tag clothes. (Please note: Only use the tagging gun through clothing tags to avoid damaging clothing- it’s inevitable that the barb will make holes in garments if tagged elsewhere.) Also handy: a lint roller; rolling rack; steamer; Magic Eraser (for toys and ‘solid’ items to remove scuffs); tubs and plastic to store your wares until time to pack up and transport to the sale.

Clothing should be sorted into seasons- my particular consignment sale only allows clothing for that particular season- so heavy jackets, winter holiday, rain/ snow gear and such are only allowed during the August/ September sales. The same would go for shorts, bathing suits and water toys for April/ May sales. However, there is still a need for some lighter type clothing for Fall (it’s often warm here well into the end of October) and layering clothing for the Spring (we get some chilly breezes in July too!) Maternity clothing is usually all season as are any type of children’s school uniforms.   Now that you’ve sorted seasonally, time to size! Sort items into gender and sizes and then the fun begins!

What to price your items: There are a lot of variables. Knowing that you are selling to a bunch of other like-minded budget savvy moms; your best reference will be to think: what would I pay? (Yes, it would be nice to garner $10 for a set of two onesies, but it won’t happen, so use your own frugality to set your price point.) Also, quality of the item; desirability; name brand and quantity. If you are selling new items (not newer, new- like in a box or with tags) it’s safe to price your item at about 70% of retail. If not, I think that a good deal is when I find something about 50% or retail value. Also, remember that the goal is to SELL the item and get rid of it and not have to lug it back to your home and possibly store for next season’s sale. That’s money gone. You also have the option to have your items as those that go at 50% of ticketed price on the last day- so if you have a pair of jeans that you’d like to get $4 for, but you’d happy if it just sells, period, then select the half-price option in your tagging software. Trust me, it’s much better to get some cha-ching in the end- the quantity that you are selling makes up in the end. (If you live in an area that has multiple sales in a season with the same consignment outfit, you may be able to roll your items over to the next sale at that full price- it all depends on your preference) Most hanging items should start at $3; also only mark in full or half/dollar increments.

DESCRIPTIONS: I know that tagging can be monotonous, but taking a few seconds to type in a more detailed description of your item is of a huge benefit to you AND the volunteer staff if your item and tag is separated- it happens and if after doing a Boolean search for “Carter’s” in the computer and 1000 items come up, it’s a crapshoot if the tag gets remarried to your item. However, if you have a description that say: Carter’s 9-12mo 3pc set: Pink Butterfly onesie; striped pants and matching pink butterfly socks, there is a very good chance that your item makes it back out on the floor and off to a new, loving home. Additionally, if a piece goes awry, it can be tracked down.

ATTACHING TAGS: Tags should be on the right hand side of clothing (the opposite side of the hanger opening) or through the tags (not fabric itself); on flat part of other items (particularly the top) and secured with tape on at least two sides, but NOT over the barcode; if you are bagging items, the tags should still be attached to the outside. When printing tags, use a printer setting above “draft” mode to ensure clear barcodes for scanning.

CLOTHING:
I’m only going to ‘hit’ on the items that I can offer good tips on- there are so many categories and these are where I’ve often overheard people asking questions.

HANGING GUIDELINES: Use only one hanger- hang your first item with the hanger neck facing left (like a ?) and then pin the item at the shoulders to the hanger- this prevents the item from slipping off of the hanger and being tossed about and not visible to sell. You can then pin other items to the front and back in a nicely merchandised fashion- think like you see sets of children’s clothes at a retail store. Most sales have a minimum price point for hanging items- $3- due to space issues. I’ve seen consignors even go as far as to tape the safety pins, but in my experience, it hasn’t been necessary.

PANTS: Sets are always nice- secure to the hanger with safety pins. Even better- if you have a full outfit (pants, shirt, matching socks and/ or shoes, and even other accessories) bundle them all together on one hanger (include small items in a plastic bag secured to the hanger) and value price- these items are very popular!

COSTUMES/ DRESS-UP: Although seemingly more popular during the Fall sales, dress-up items are accepted at either sale. The more complete, the costume, the better- remember to include special accessories or even make-up if you have it. I went crazy here for BabyK- bought a very mini Minnie Mouse and an adorable fish costume- she had several “set” changes for her first Halloween last year and will probably never be the same. LOL Use a search engine to find out what the retail price is and go for about 40% of that.

Shoes: shoes should be free from scuff marks and as much dirt as possible; clean shoelaces are good too. You don’t want to go “Ewww” when you pick them up. If there isn’t a shoe box, use a zip tie through the eye holes to loosely secure them together and tape your tag against the zip tie. If there is a box, I would suggest putting it in a clear bag and taping. If you just tag the box, and not the shoes, your item will probably end up in the Lost Tags section and not make it to the cash register.

Books/ CD’s/ DVD’s/ GAMES: Tagging books is precarious- you don’t want to damage them, so just use your best judgment- if you are going to bag books together, the bag might get opened anyways. I’ve seen many consignors tie bundles together with twine or even wrap them in food quality clear wrap. All levels of books are popular- from parenting and pregnancy to baby soft books, chapter books, etc. Using regular office-style tape instead of packing tape lessens the chance of damage.

If you have smaller games with plastic coverings that won’t damage if taped, secure the smaller game to a large piece of cardboard (think something too large to ‘fit’ into a purse or bag) with packing tape. Receipts are checked on the way out, but using your own ‘inventory’ control is very handy!


I recommend that you only sell media with original covers- I’ve seen it either way, but some sales are more strict.


TOYS:
Anything goes here- it’s amazing to see what sells! Larger outdoor toys usually sell quickly for around 50% if they are in good condition. If you can use a zip tie to secure your tag, I would recommend that you do that and reinforce the top of the tag prior to hole punching; your toy will keep its tag until the register. Additionally, printing out multiple tags (1/3, 2/3) for a toy set (table and chairs for example) is also a good idea. Most importantly; install batteries and test (and then turn back off until you get to the sale)- if they don’t play, they go back home with you until it “works” again. (Carry extra batteries in your vehicle on your way to the sale!) If you happen to still have the user manual, include that with the toy and you can possibly increase your value (worst case, Yours will sell when compared to five others since it has a manual!).
Secure puzzle boxes (please, count the pieces- it’s annoying to NOT get a full puzzle!) in a clear bag and tape.

BEDDING: include as many pieces of the set that you can and put in a large bag or wrap with a clear plastic. Include a concise description on your tag so that curious shoppers are tempted to open the bag.

FEEDING GEAR: Popular items: clean bibs (sell in sets); sets of utensils; tableware; bottles (again, sell in sets- Avent and Dr. Brown are good sellers if priced correctly! I just buy new nipples for the bottles); even breast pumps sell! I’ve even purchased new, sealed formula or baby food.

POTTY TIME: High end fabric diapers are hot! As are any disposable diapers- we had a batch leftover when K transitioned to the next size and those all got snapped up on the first day of the sale. Wiper warmers; changing pad covers (changing pads or any type of ‘mattresses’ are not accepted in California); lap pads; diaper disposal systems (clean and deodorize please!) range from $8 to $15.

INFANT ITEMS: Toys/ rattles/ pacifiers- it’s all game- items sell best when packaged into ‘sets’ and still have lots of life left. This is one of the best places to score discounted infant gear.
Car seats usually have to be the complete travel system (base/ seat/ stroller combo) and less than five years old- you will have to sign off on a waiver prior to consigning. High chairs/ booster seats should have all straps and safety pieces.

OTHER STUFF: You are selling to moms- so think what do moms love? Craft items (you know that you have extras!) Party gear; new in box ‘regifting’ things- time to clean your house and make a little money!

If you have any questions that I haven’t answered or have your own tips, please feel free to comment!  (I am not affiliated with the Just Between Friends organization other than loving the concept and being a bargain-minded mommy!)


Happy Consigning!

I Stole From Target and Safeway

That one caught your attention! I didn’t really steal- just feel like I did after scoring some really awesome deals using coupons and ‘secret’ in-store sales. Just a warning: if you see me in the checkout line ahead of you at a grocery store or one of the box stores, you may want to change lines because I am one of "those" people- I use coupons!! Do you know that only 1% of America uses coupons? I don’t know if there is a stigma attached to being a ‘coupon-clipper’ but at this point, I really don’t care- I saved $36 at Target last night and nearly $25 at Safeway the night before that. Hmm…. What should we do with that $61???


My new role of “Mom” has also relegated me to be a frugalista. Not that I haven’t always loved a good deal- I try to never pay full price for anything- it just seems that my newest hobby is coupon clipping and I love the challenge of finding a good deal.